Nestled amidst sand dunes, a mere hour’s drive from the towering skyscrapers of Dubai, lies the ghostly remnants of a desert village that stood witness to the rapid transformation of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) over the years. Al-Ghuraifa, constructed during the 1970s to accommodate semi-nomadic Bedouin communities, now stands abandoned, a relic of the UAE’s shift from its rugged origins to its modern-day status as a global commerce and tourism hub.
Initially built as part of a post-1971 public housing initiative after the formation of the UAE, al-Ghuraifa sheltered around 100 members of the al-Ketbi tribe. These tribes had lived a semi-nomadic existence, herding animals and navigating the desert oases, with occasional visits to the budding port towns of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, which relied on fishing and pearl diving.
The village boasted local architectural touches, with modern cement houses designed to facilitate the transition from nomadic to settled life. The interior of these houses was adorned with vibrant hues and intricate mosaics and included spaces for village elders to host local councils, known as “majalis” in Arabic. One particularly notable home featured wallpaper depicting lush, green landscapes in stark contrast to the surrounding monotonous desert.
Although the reasons remain in mystery, the village was abandoned just two decades after its construction. While local legends attributed the departure to malevolent spirits, Ahmad Sukkar, a University of Sharjah assistant professor involved in researching the site, suggests a more pragmatic explanation: the pursuit of a better life in the rapidly growing UAE cities.
In a report from The Associated Press, Sukkar shared that limited access to essential resources like electricity and water, combined with frequent sandstorms and the necessity of long commutes across the desert to reach work and schools in Dubai, likely contributed to the villagers’ reason of leaving.
Today, the village is being gradually reclaimed by the desert itself. Drifts of sand have infiltrated the homes, obscuring walls and almost reaching the ceilings. Only the mosque remains untouched, thanks to regular maintenance by workers from the nearby al-Madam.
While some descendants of the once camel-mounted Bedouin still inhabit remote corners of the Emirates, many have migrated to urban centers characterized by towering skyscrapers, expansive air-conditioned malls, and modern highways. The UAE’s population is predominantly comprised of expatriates from various corners of the world, including overseas Filipinos, some of whom show a keen interest in the country’s more modest history.
In recent times, the village has become a hub for guided tours, offering a glimpse into its enigmatic past. The site has also served as a backdrop for music videos and social media posts showcasing Dubai’s trademark opulence, luxury cars, and international models.
To preserve the integrity of the site and manage tourism, the local municipality has installed protective fencing, a security gate, trash receptacles, and a designated parking area. While these measures may somewhat demystify the location, they also raise the possibility of al-Ghuraifa becoming a formal tourist attraction, joining the ranks of UAE’s many other captivating destinations.
How to get there
Situated approximately 70km away from Dubai, Al-Ghuraifa can be found along the E44 road, situated just south of Al Madam town. While public transportation does not extend to this location, opting for a taxi is a viable choice. Numerous tour operators also arrange excursions to this site from Dubai.
